wine


Matching Food with Wine.

The fact is, most wines are produced as an accompaniment to food, and there are several established guidelines for matching wine with the food the correct way in order to ensure some success.  Originally, different wine styles evolved to compliment the cuisine of a region, so this can be a helpful starting point for finding the right wine and food combination.  Just keep in mind that there is no single wine that must be consumed with a particular dish, but some are clearly better than others.

Basic Considerations

If you want to get a good balance, it is necessary to analyze the basic parts of the wine and the food.  The idea is to try to balance these two things.  You don’t want the food or the wine to overpower the other.  The main elements to consider are:

  • Match the weight/richness of the food and the body of the wine.
  • Match the flavour intensity of the food and that of the wine.
  • Match acidic foods with high-acid wines
  • Match sweet foods with sweet wines.
  • Avoid combining oily or very salty foods with high tannin red wines.

The following guidelines can help avoid food and wine clashes:

  • Pair chewy type meat with tannic wines.
  • Pair Salty foods with sweet or high acid wines.
  • Pair fatty and oily food with high acid wines.
  • Match or contrast flavour characteristics of the food and the wine.

Weight/Richness of the Food and Wine

The first thing to do and the most important, is to match the weight of the food and the wine.  Rich and heavyweight foods need a full-bodied wine. So you would want to have meats like game, roast meats and red meat casseroles with powerful red wines, although, it is the body of the wine that matters, not the color or flavour so much here.  Lighter food like white meat or fish are complimented more by delicate wines.  Oh, and don’t forgot the sauce!  A rich and creamy sauce will need a wine of sufficient body to match the food and flavours that will complement the smooth creamy, buttery taste.

Flavour intensity

After weight, flavour is the next most important component on the list.  Weight and flavour are not the same. Like, a plate of boiled rice is heavy but it has a light taste.  Wine works the same way. Foods that have been steamed gently require a lighter flavoured wine than those that have been roasted as roasting adds additional flavor to the dish.

Something stewed or cooked slowly, like this Ragu sauce and Papperdelle I love to cook in cold weather, has tons of flavour in every bite and its necessary to match this with a very complex and flavourful wine.

Next we move on to….

Acidity in the Food and Wine.

First off, acidity is not necessarily a bad thing. As we discussed in Wine 101: Tasting and Evaluating the acidity in wine is what makes it refreshing and crisp.  Sour flavours in food can make wine taste less acidic and hence, less refreshing and vibrant.  So, acidic foods need to be matched with accompanying wines.  Tomatoes, lemons, pineapples, apples and vinegar are all high in acidity.  One of the big points in Italian cuisine, and Italian red wine is the acidity.  It is quite high. Italian dishes, many of them, are dominated by tomatoes and olive oil and other acidic ingredients like vinegar and lemons. Hence, wines that go well with Italian, are usually quite acidic.

Sweetness in the Food and Wine.

Dry wines can seem tart sand over-acidic when consumed with any food with a degree of sweetness.  Sweet food is bext with wine which has a similiar or greater degree of sweetness.  The sweeter the food, the sweeter the wine should be.

Oil, Salt and Tannins

Tannin in combination with really oily fish can produce a very unpleasant metallic taste, so the general rule is to avoid red wines with fish.  However, low tannin reds are OK with meaty fish.

Chewy Meat and Tannins

Tannin in Red wines reacts with the protein.  Foods with a high protein content, particularly rare red meat, will soften the effects of the tannin on the palate.  This is the reason that high tannin grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah or Shiraz, go well with roast meats, stews and steaks.

I suppose these guidelines should help you avoid truly disastrous combinations , but individual taste is the final consideration.  experimentation is key!

If you feel like you need more information or just have “caught the wine bug” like me, the following is a very decent book exploring the connections and relationships between food and wine all over the world.

“Wine with Food” Great read!


Why Wine?
So you want to ask me….”Eric, Why Wine?”. This is harder to explain than one might think, even for a sort of professionally part-time writing enthusiast, master of the English language, both written and spoken formats, guy such as myself. I have suspected for years, often with no small amount of dread, that I would at some point become a wine jerk at some time or another in my development. It seemed somehow pre-destined, so why fight it? Some other reasons might have to do with my obsessive nature and the over complexity of wine and that industry appealing to that part of me. It might be my interest in History and the over 6,000 years of it that Wine has. I am not certain…however, I am certain that although I am a rank novice in the world of wine and its appreciation, I am at least, making an attempt. This series, WINE 101, is being put together because a few people have mailed me and some have just left comments with questions regarding wine. So, let it be known:

  • I am a newbie. Be patient.
  • I am getting information from a variety of sources and trying to summarize key points for you, the reader.

So anyway, let’s get on with it.

Tasting
Tasting wine rather than just pouring it down our throats increases our appreciation of the wine by allowing us to examine it in detail. Sure, the process can seem repetitive and pretentious at first, but with practice it becomes a subconscious habit. What we are doing is forcing our sensations to go to work and then we are pushed to put these impressions into words, this will allow us to keep the wine and its essence alive in our memories that much longer.
Preparation for tasting
If you really want to get a clear and concise impression of a wine, it is important that your tasting enviroment and conditions be ideal. You want an essentially odor free room free of smells like tobacco, cleaning products, food or perfume. Your tasting palate should also be clean and neutral so for the love of GOD, no chewing gum or excessive toothpaste etc. You can chew on a piece of bread to help prepare your tongue and neutralize any serious flavors that shouldnt be there. The light in the room should be natural and you should have a white place mat or some sort of white background against which you can judge colors and the appearance of the wine.
The Glass you use, for tasting purposes and simplicity, avoid glasses designed specifically to highlight a particular wines attributes. I have a wonderful set of crystal wine glass from Riedel that can greatly enhance the wine experience. However, if you learn wine in a more modest glass, these crystal specialized tasting glasses are appreciated even more. Also, to make fair comparisons between wines, you need a neutral wine glass that has a rounded bowl that is large enough to swirl the wine. The sides should slope inwards in a tulip shape to concentrate the aromas, and the stem should allow you to hold the glass without warming the wine. Remember that….USE THE STEM, DO NOT HOLD THE BOWL OF THE GLASS. That is WHY it has a stem.  Dont worry about looking like a puff,  your doing wine tasting, its too late, you already look like one.
Once you have all this prepared you can move on. It goes in this order: Appearance, The Nose, then the Palate and finally, draw conclusions about the quality.

Appearance
The main reason to first look at a wine is because its appearance can warn you of faults. Too old, badly stored, cork seal failed, etc are all things that make a wine “out of condition”.
These Out of condition wines are dull in appearance and can even look brown.
You can also learn about the age of a wine by its color. Is it intense?
If it is a red wine, is it RUBY (purply red) or GARNET (Orangy red)? Purple is an indicator of a young wine. Orange, amber and brown indicate more advanced aging.

Nose
Next step: Smell the wine. Swirl the wine. Do this by putting the glass on the table and placing your hand at the base. Make small circles. Swirling is not just something you can do to look like, well, a wine asshole, no it actually has a purpose: to release as many aroma molecules as possible. Lift the glass by the stem up to your face, put your Nose INSIDE THE GLASS, not over it or next to it, get your nose right in there and take a big sniff. Notice anything strange? For example a lack of aroma? That might be cork taint. It can result in no aroma or even a nasty wet cardboard box that a homeless bum slept in smell, not exactly the ideal wine experience.
Ok so if the wine is healthy, what did you smell? How intense were the aromas? Are they pronounced or are they hard to detect? When you start describing the smell, this is all opinion. Different people smell different things based on our own histories and nasal capacities. So don’t be shy, try and explain, verbally reproduce the smell if you can. Is it feminine, elegant, or clumsy? Dont say something like “It smells like my uncles toilet” or “This reminds me of the smell of bread my Sister bakes”…although this might be true, nobody else can connect with these descriptions.

Palate
Of course, tasting is subjective. We all have different sensitivities so, no two peoples wine experience will be the same. We can however, basically, agree on whats sweeter, more acidic, or more tannic. It takes a lot of practice….so you have to have wine often, and not just drink it but TASTE it, think about it, talk about it or write about it to get a feel for what is what. So when you taste look for the Sweetness (is it “dry”? meaning almost no sugar), Acidity (like a lemon, this will make a wine refreshing and vibrant, cool climates generally result in higher acidity), Tannin (Tannins are in the grape skin, and their presence depends on the skin contact during winemaking, white and rose wines have very little, these all add to the body of the wine) and Body (also called “mouth feel”, this talks about the richness, weight and viscosity oh and the alcohol of the wine).

Conclusions
Did you like the wine? Thats the first question to ask. If so, yes or no whatever, explain why you came to this conclusion. How was the BALANCE between the sweetness and acidity and tannin? What about the LENGTH or how long the taste lingered on your palate? A long, pleasant after taste can tell you about the quality of the wine. How was the INTENSITY? Here again balance is key. Think also of EXPRESSIVENESS and COMPLEXITY. All important factors. Of course, its good to talk about the wine while you drink and taste, or even to write about it. Just do not be silent. Put that wine you enjoyed so much into words.

Next time I will write about Wine 101: Matching Wine with Food

Untill then, Enjoy your wine and feel free to comment and contribute about any wines you have enjoyed recently that left an impression!

I consider my wine odyssey something that I am the captain of. I am controlling this ship, I am at the Helm, however, last night something went wrong, very wrong. My control, my consent, yes, even my self-respect were all dashed violently yet with ease, upon the dangerous yet sensuous  rocks of the Gran Coronas Caberbet Sauvignon 2005


I had a wonderful (long and painful, hence wonderful) run around 0900 yesterday in the Sunday sun and after some business in Shinjuku, I returned home about 1500. I did some reading and began cooking. Sunday is generally pasta and I made a very good pork red wine sauce and had some nice fresh bread from Anderson’s at Isetan. The sauce was slow cooking and I decided to have a glass of wine. I had this bottle of Gran Coronas and I decided to give it a try. This was the last decision that I actually made concerning this evil demon wine.  All subsequent decisions were made by “her”.

I un-corked it and decanted a small amount into one of the crystal wine glasses I have and let the air work on it for a few moments, I swirled it, then casually, not paying much attention I brought it up to my nose and inhaled. This is when the Sirens call first caught me, and caught me well it did.

The aroma is soft and pliable yet oddly intense. The smells of leather, smoke, chocolate and currant flooded my nose and just this alone was intoxicating. Then, for the first time, I heard her soft whisper….

Estas Sola?
Yes…I’m alone this evening.I whispered back.

I smelled again and then slowly brought the edge of the glass to my lips…

Quieres bailar?

I then took my first taste. So silky and smooth with such dense, well structured tannins,  not an attack on your palate, but a very clear and successful seduction.
During the rest of the evening she continued to beckon me, and we fell into a dialogue that I could no longer…fight.

GC: los ojos más bonitos del mundo.
ME: You say that to everyone…I know.

Tienes novia?
Please..just stop

Te Deseo…dame un beso.
Gran Coronas…please…

Sienteme
Yes…

Vamos a la habitacion ahora mismo
OK but…please be gentle with me….

Tocame, bésame, Sienteme
Yes, Yes…anything for you.

Mirame, puedes desnudarte…
Yes! Gran Coronas….Estoy desesperadamente enamorado de ti!

Needless to say…it was an intense evening. I will be purchasing a couple of these bottles to hold on to as the peak time for consumption seems to be between 2011 and 2014.

Untill then….

Additional Warning: DO NOT consume this wine while listening to Santa Esmeralda…under any circumstances, if you value your decency

Tweet Me

Today….damn this weather.  It is cold, dreary and the rain has been fairly consistant for hours.  My workouts today were crap. My grandmother can train harder than I did today…but my grandmother is likely half cyborg so just forget that. 

(She is about 5 feet tall and I once saw her lift this little ENGINE BLOCK!!! in her tool shed, she just bent down and picked up, all the while going on to me about how wonderful it is that I can help her weed the garden that day.  And another time, I shit you not, she fell asleep next to the fire place in her house, and it took me a few minutes to notice that her HAND was IN the fire and it was fucking SMOKING. I woke her up, terrified, my face a twisted mask of disgust and horror and she goes “oh….its time for hot cocao.”)

Perhaps its the rain or perhaps just making the mistake of taking a day off yesterday but I felt like I had been pumped full of Kedomine and suspended by fishhooks all day when I attempted to move any faster than an arthritic 120 year old saint Bernard. 

Having said all this however, I will discuss briefly my rather wonderful evening last night. 

I cooked! I know, I know some of you are already moving the mouse to escape before I can tell you about the wonderful ”Balony grilled cheese sandwich with chili frie”s I made but don’t!  Not yet….for you dear reader, are mistaken.

I decided that I wanted to get my gourmet on so I had to go shopping.  It has been quiet some time since I did any kind of real cooking, anything beyond cup noodles and an all time American favorite: over/under cooked spaghetti and CRAP…so…I needed the first step to any genuinely decent meal: QUALITY INGREDIENTS.

Oh but I am getting ahead of myself….the first thing I did was clean up my room.  This was well over do.  With my current schedule in the gym and at work I have little time for properly stowing anything and on any given day my room looks as though I have, as my father used to say, “dropped a frag grenade is this dump”.  Just clothes and laundry and nonsense all over, essentially, BEDLAM. 

So I cleaned things up (stuffed everything into invisible storage spaces) and headed off to Isetan Department store in Shinjuku.  Despite being a mad house on Saturday, the food mall downstairs is extraordinary. I can and have wondered around that place for hours just gawking at the things offered and the people there. It is a great example of the cosmopolitan nature of Tokyo, one can find almost anything.  So I pulled out the list I had prepared.

PORK RAGU with papperdelle (or rigotoni??)

I love this dish. It is marvelous and it is a MAN’S dinner.  Active and robust, the flavors are simply lovely and although it can take sometime to prepare do to slow cooking, it is not too much trouble and I have always found the eating experience well worth the wait.  When you eat this meal with some good bread and smoky red wine you start to understand why Italian men are the way they are….”Ciao Bella!”

The list was simple enough….

  • Pork (or game is ok too, next time I’ll use rabbit)
  • flour about 1 table-spoon
  • FRESH parsley
  • FRESH thyme
  • FRESH Rosemary
  • red onion
  • couple of nice carrots
  • chicken stock like about 2 cups full
  • sea salt (you get what you pay for people)
  • black pepper
  • fresh parmesan cheese
  • An Orange
  • pappardelle or rigotoni or some MANLY pasta not any of this fettucine bullshit.
  • Extra Virgin Olive oil
  • knob of butter
  • big glass of white wine (for the dish…not for your pain)

So I got home from Isetan having found some really great Papperdelle.  Various colors due to different ingredients like tomato and I think asparagus or something.  I started getting things ready.  Basically it went as follows…

  • chop up the carrots, the rosemary, the Thyme, the onion, and I mean finely shopped yeah.
  • pour a good bit on olive oil into the pot, I also add a dash of water, then dump in the veggies and spice. Cook for about 5 minutes.
  • then I add the meat, pork bits yesterday, then I stir.
  • pour in the glass of white wine. Red is ok too and using one or the other is very different.  I used white last night.  I did this to lighten flavors and bring out others. Red, a Chianti perhaps, gives the food a great color and fills your home with the most wonderful aroma. So both have upsides. Anyway, then add the chicken stock, make sure it covers the meat.
  • generously season with sea salt and pepper.
  • bring it to a boil, then turn the heat down a bit and let it cook good for about one hour and forty five minutes.  Till the pork is VERY VERY soft, almost to the point that it melts in your mouth.  I took this opportunity to enjoy a selection of wines my dinner guest brought. More on that in a minute.
  • when the  Ragu sauce is getting to that 1:45 mark, start cooking your pasta in a big pot of salt water. 
  • Then when you feel the sauce is about done, the pork is melting in your mouth, add in the knob of butter, squeeze in the juice from at least half a big orange, stir in about half your parmesan cheese. cook a few more minutes.
  • THEN….drain the pasta and then you want to toss (mix) the pasta with the sauce….here you will also add more cheese with some extra virgin olive oil on top, and well as sprinkle on some very finely sliced orange rind.  It looks lovely, smells amazing and tastes damn good. 

Remember here to also sprinkle that freshly chopped parsley on top.  It makes all the difference.  This is also a great dish reheated, the ragu sauce can go on good bread in the morning for a quick breakfast or lunch….its good eats.  This will put hair on your chest.  Or…for the ladies, curves in the correct places.

The wine provided by my wonderful dinner guest was also very nice.

We enjoyed tasting four different wines.  two white, two red and I can say these made the meal even more enjoyable.  The wines were Chakana Sauvignon blanc 2008- a great, really fun and fruity wine from Argentina.  A Meursault Premier Cru 2005 from France, also very nice, I described it as “clearly my mothers choice here” it being more elegant than the white from Argentina yet also less playful.  In red we had a 2006 Chateaux Dufort-Vivens Margaux that was relaxing and smooth followed by a 2005  Vosne Romanee from Chateaux De Laborde.  This had such a smoky rich aroma and a very deep taste, it complimented the cheese we had and really made an impression.

It was a wonderful evening….and as I look outside now and see that it is in fact SNOWING…I will open up one of these, maybe that Argentinian bottle, and imagine myself on a warm beach someplace in the sunshine because face it….we have a month and a half left of this nonsense.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 715 other followers