Ikebukuro


Ikebukuro West Side

We all get mixed up here. I think that’s why I like living here.  I think that’s why I ended up right here.  Outside as the sun rises or as it sets I can watch everyone going around and doing what they do and making their paper.

If I don’t mind him and his wife screaming at each other in Cantonese, I can go get some Pigeon two blocks behind the cheap Sushi place, with the chef that tries to cover up his old, worn tattoos, but that doesn’t matter because he’s missing two finger ends anyway.

I go by really cheap, fresh vegetables about 3 blocks from my place, help an old Korean woman put a box of potatoes on her rusty old cart she uses to transport the goods/keep her upright and I smile at a group of young ladies that pass by on their way to where-ever.  Then I wave a little “hello” at a line of kids that go to the Christian  kindergarten across the street from my place and on the other side of the side walk I make vacant eye contact with a 20 year-old hooker walking to meet some john in one of the hundred love hotels that dot the area.

All the big trees on the main street outside my place here across from the elementary school on the 4th block of Ikebukuro are green  and full.  The fat, platinum blond, former sumo wrestler that runs the Ramen shop a block away, next to the florist, opens his store, sits in front of it all day shirtless, covered in sweat, and then gets hammered on beers and shochu in the evenings with his friends.  More young women that look used but want more money and more tanned, thin, slick 20 something year old guys with cold stares in their eyes go from this place to that;  Diamond studs in their ears and matching watches that the street lights glint off of as they wander alleys and corners getting people what they want.

I live in West Ikebukuro and I still haven’t figured it out yet.

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Little Mine Sweeper

Cycles.

Everyone gets caught in these cycles and it’s just this thing that people do.  People move right and left or they go straight or they go north or south and they make choices and they chose this or that or whatever and it’s all this disambiguation.

I got on the train.  I was on it. It rumbled as it does through Tokyo.  It moved quickly and it made a noise and I heard it but I didn’t.

The summer heat is something that people know but in Tokyo it permeates everything; it makes a statement; it has a conversation with you.  Sometimes you talk with it but sometimes you don’t and if you have lived in the city, and you know the features and the vibration then you might get it, but if you haven’t then you can really only try to embrace some of the colors and concepts and dreams and finally the emotions but without that dreamers spirit you will likely be lost.

I am on the Fukutoshin line, and it’s rocketing through a tunnel someplace and I am ignoring it.

I wipe sweat away, again.  My wash cloth I carry is damp, it’s moist.  My sweat has saturated it.  The long day.  The drastic heat. The intense humidity; it all leans on you heavily.  I look around and people are in various states of subterfuge.  It’s very different from other countries that suffer through a jungle summer.  In Japan, they like to pretend like we are all living in Canada, or Maine; “No problem here, the heat is just one of the temperate seasons.”

A falsehood.

I see her before she gets on the train.  She’s not old, but she’s not young. She’s maybe 28.  This woman doesn’t look at me through the thick glass of the train doors but behind my aviators I’m looking at her and then I notice her carry on; a little girl.

She looks how little girls should look.  She’s tiny.  Her hair’s ridiculously all over the place and it’s nearly down to her lower back. Her skin, which everyone I know would want, is heavily tanned and dark.  She stands next to the attractive almost thirty year old woman but they don’t touch and immediately I think, I know, that they rarely touch.

A chime goes and the door hydraulics go and it all slides open and I move aside.

A lot of people get onto the hot train which is less hot than outside at the indoor station in Higashi-Shinjuku.

They get on, the once very attractive woman and the little girl burnt by the sun from so many afternoons on playgrounds and in parking lots and who knows where.

I don’t know why they caught my eye but well caught it was and I couldn’t help but look on, guilty as I am.  The woman, I sigh for her now, but she was as so many people can be that exist in that realm; near to Kabukichou. Existing in that equation and to them that is reality, and everything she said to the world physically was that she had ridden that ride already and had the T-shirt and it was all done and now, there was something else.

That something else was the little sun brown dwarf not on her thin arm.

I take both of them in greedily.  The woman, tall for Japan and well-built with breasts and hips and an ass and all the trappings of someone who could turn heads but lacking any interest.  She’s not looking.  She’s not looking because of the little kid that is being transported with her.  The little brilliantly brown dwarf that won’t touch her Mama.  Even when I look at her and smile, she doesn’t touch Mom. She doesn’t touch she just angles slightly. That’s it.

The system has been in place for some time; don’t touch mommy on the train, ever.

This is not a baby sitter. Only a mother could be this cold to her own.

And in the end what the fuck am I? Who am I to catalogued this?  What am I recording?

When the train arrives at Ikebukuro station, the doors slide open and they both get out.  I do too and I walk slowly behind them, watching them not touch, or even converse or communicate at all, as we all approach the escalator.

I step onto the escalator slowly.  Then, I look up at the  ceiling creeping by and let out a long sigh.  My weight now feels immense as we just creep along.

When I look back down, I see the little  girl in front of me, a couple of steps up, and her mother in front of her.  The girl is looking at the long steel median between our escalator and the one across from us and her little tan hand is hovering over it.

All my attention, every part of me, all the fibers and components, the focus of complete celestial bodies all wire in and become transfixed on her little brown hand.  Her tiny fingers are dancing lightly over the shiny steel divide; prancing lightly up and down drumming out some rhythm that only she knows.  I don’t look away but I know her lips are moving and she’s singing a song to herself.

Her fingers keep dancing lightly over the steel and her nails are incredibly white and clean.

At the top, her and the mother get off and walk away.  I scan my card over the ticket gate and walk through the station passing a thousand people as I go home.

It isn’t until later that night, in the dark as I’m walking down a hot street covered in sweat that I finally decide what it is that the little brown fingers with the honest fingernails and lack of damage mean  or represent and it’s not a set or fixed value but if I had to choose I’d say that my analysis is correct.

They represent hope.

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Gaijinass lives in Chinatown

If I’m training in the morning before work, I am up at 0350 and out the door by 0400.  But, on the days I decide to train after work, I get up at the leisurely, cake eating time of 0530.

I wake up and I shower, shave, groom, etc.  Then, I have coffee.  Then, I have another coffee.  And finally I have another coffee.  I sip these, generally, while sitting at my writing desk which faces big sliding glass doors looking out on West Ikebukuro. The view isn’t much; general urban sprawl and crows.

Ikebukuro is home to many, many crows.

Crows that sit on the railing of my balcony and scowl at me.

Crows that know my secrets.

Crows that smugly look away and defecate onto my balcony; into my running shoes.

More scowling.

I leave home at about 0650.  I don’t need to be at work until 0830 and the commute is only 45 minutes all told door to door, a very reasonable commute by Tokyo standards, but I heartily despise being rushed.

Frankly speaking, I really enjoy taking my motherfucking sweet ass time.

I like to stroll to the train station.  The walk is only 7 minutes when one is stepping it out, but in the morning I make that 15 minutes.  This pimp likes to smell the roses.  He enjoys looking up at the blue sky and the clouds.  He inspects the spring foliage and he listens to the birds chirping their spring song.  He stops at the little park down the street and watches while 15 police have trouble arresting one insane drunk covered in what looks a lot like blood.  This pimp takes it all in, and then he buys a cappuccino.

The thing about this stroll to Ikebukuro station isn’t the cosmopolitan sites or the juxtaposition of man and nature, but rather it’s the fact that during this entire 15 minutes I don’t hear a lick of the Japanese language.

Mandarin, Cantonese, Taiwanese, Hakka and then the smattering of Korean, Russian and Urdu.  Then, finally, I might here a couple drunken, filthy Kiwi’s talking about Rugby.  My point?

I am an American, living in Japan, living in Tokyo, living in Chinatown.  And I think this is utterly absurd and totally fitting.

“Welcome to the Jungle”

If you ask someone that “knows” Tokyo where Chinatown is, inevitably whomever you asked will most likely say “Well, in Yokohama.”  In a sense this is correct, but in another sense it’s bullshit.

The fact is, Toshima Ku, the district in which Ikebukuro is located has the highest percentage of Chinese immigrants found anywhere in Japan and just about all of them live next door to me.

The West Exit at Ikebukuro station, the second busiest station in Tokyo, has since the 1980′s gradually changed from a half assed “center for the arts” into a hub for university parties, Ramon shops, fuzoku (prostitution) and the Chinese.  Chinese restaurants, groceries, second-hand shops and particularly Chinese people are absolutely everywhere.  This is WHY there are SO many Ramon shops.  It’s also why the Toshima Ku government has invested so much money in trying to beautifie the West exit.  It’s also why there are so many female police officers at work in Ikebukuro; when the cops raid a burlesque house, female officers are needed for, well, a variety of activities.

“A variety of activities indeed.”

Despite living 5 minutes from a notorious and bustling red light district, my own block is oddly peaceful.  Just across the street is Ikebukuro Elementary school with its chimes and morning music blasting for all to hear, and next door to that is a Christian Church and kindergarten.  The street, and ONLY this street, has rows of big, green trees that are full and lush and hang deeply over the main thoroughfare and side walks.  Cafes are everywhere; out door tables all full (mostly with Chinese) and kids can be seen playing and horsing around as kids do while a tricked out SUV full of gangsters glides by.  It’s just a nutting part of the city and I love it.

The point today is this my friends: Yokohama can blow me.  The real Chinatown in Tokyo is located right outside my front door.

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